At Pier 36 on the Lower East Side, lines formed early Saturday as festivalgoers waited for a taste of Kuya Lord’s signature dishes, the same plates that helped turn a former pop-up into one of Los Angeles’ most talked-about restaurants over the past four years.
The Melrose Hill spot, which recently marked its fourth anniversary, is known for its expressive take on the flavors of Calabarzon – the Southern Tagalog region where Llera’s cooking draws deep inspiration.
Kuya Lord’s small but focused menu has earned raves from critics and diners alike, spotlighting dishes such as Lucenachon, a pork belly and porchetta hybrid with crackling skin; short rib tapa bowls layered with garlic rice and pickles; Pancit Chami with springy noodles and rich sauce; and a tart-sweet calamansi pie that often sells out by the end of service.
In New York, the chef leaned into that greatest-hits energy, giving East Coast guests a true snapshot of what has made his Los Angeles kitchen a destination.
Llera’s profile surged nationally after he won the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: California award, a milestone that pushed regional Filipino comfort food into the center of the American restaurant conversation. The recognition has since opened doors to high-profile collaborations, media features and a packed calendar of guest-chef dinners across the country.
Yet, he has often described his approach as grounded in memory and community, cooking food that tastes like home while presenting it with the precision of fine dining.
Even as Kuya Lord continues to draw crowds in Los Angeles, Llera is already looking ahead.
He has been teasing a new open-flame concept called Kaen, previewing test services built around premium meats, fresh seafood and charcoal cooking. The idea, he has suggested, is to explore the primal, smoky flavors of Filipino grilling traditions in a more focused way, while Kuya Lord remains the flagship for his Calabarzon-driven comfort fare.
In between restaurant service and Kaen trial runs, Llera keeps a busy roster of special appearances, including events like the Isang Kusina dinner that bring together Filipino and Filipino American chefs under one roof.
The Pier 36 pop-up fit neatly into that rhythm: a day-long burst of energy where New Yorkers could encounter his food for the first time, often alongside younger Filipinos excited to see their heritage reflected in a major festival setting.
For TOFA News readers, Llera’s New York stopover also carries a familiar note.
He was named one of TOFA’s 100 Most Influential Filipinos in the World in 2025, recognized for elevating regional Filipino food and for the breakthrough of his James Beard win.
Today, each new city he cooks in (including this latest visit to Manhattan) extends that influence, turning a once-humble pop-up into a national story about what Filipino food can be.
